| Never have I experienced anything so, if | | | | during the parades. The distinct and mesmerising |
| you’ll excuse the cliché, spine-tingling and | | | | sound of the band drew closer in a gradual |
| awe-inspiring. | | | | crescendo and we saw, in the distance, the first |
| Easter in Spain. I’ve read about it, I’ve | | | | of many Tronos approaching. |
| seen the photos, I’ve watched it on TV. And | | | | Just before it reached us, the parade came to a |
| now I can say that I have been there. What an | | | | halt. The band stopped playing, and began 'El |
| experience! | | | | Silencio'. Everyone was totally quiet, even the |
| Firstly, I’m sure many people have read | | | | young children. The silence lasted for around three |
| about Easter in Spain and may think that it’s | | | | or four minutes and was incredibly moving. At this |
| something only those with a religious incline would | | | | point, on two or three occasions over the |
| appreciate. But this is simply not the case: yes it | | | | weekend, we witnessed a member of the crowd |
| helps if you have a bit of background on the | | | | breaking into a ‘saeta’. This is an |
| Easter story, but to simply appreciate the | | | | impromptu solo mantra, in a crude Flamenco |
| atmosphere, the sights and sounds, I really | | | | style, and is aimed at the pausing Trono. The |
| don’t think you have to be a church-goer. | | | | passion of the singer was evident by their falling |
| If you are going to Spain for Easter, don’t | | | | tears, their outstretched arms, hands curled with |
| expect to get much sleep. We were woken on | | | | veins pronounced. They sang praise, continuing |
| several occasions by trumpet blast and thumping | | | | until they had their say. Heartfelt applause and |
| drums outside our hotel at 1am, 2am, 3am, 4am... | | | | tears from the crowd followed. |
| the processions go on all through the night. | | | | Then the procession was ready to move off |
| Be prepared to drop everything at the sound of | | | | again. One of the brethren would tap three times |
| the marching bands! Whilst enjoying breakfast in | | | | on the front of the Trono, on what looks like a |
| the hotel one morning, we heard the notorious | | | | door knocker. |
| beating drum and trumpet sound, and smelt the | | | | Then one drum would start beating slowly, joined |
| scent of incense wafting in through the open back | | | | by another, then another, then all of a sudden, |
| door. Within seconds, the dining room was | | | | the Trono would be lifted with a mighty sigh and |
| deserted; everyone had grabbed their cameras | | | | gasp from the crowd, who may even cry |
| and made for the back door – including the | | | | ‘guapa’ or ‘guapo’ depending on |
| hotel staff! I followed them, and was met with a | | | | who the Trono depicts. The band launches into |
| head-on view of one of the processions. To see | | | | one of its emotive numbers, and the march |
| the march-past so close was thrilling, but to also | | | | starts again. |
| witness the emotion of those watching, was very | | | | Some of the Tronos are so amazing – if you |
| touching. Imagine these people who live and work | | | | are lucky to get a close up view then you |
| here; they see these processions year in, year | | | | won’t believe what you are seeing: filled with |
| out. But still, they down tools at the faintest inkling | | | | fresh and silk flowers, candles stood in highly |
| of a passing procession, and still, they watch, with | | | | polished gold and silver candelabras, all set on |
| tears in their eyes, in awe, as the brethren carry | | | | intricately carved wood. The statues on them are |
| the amazing Tronos, and the bands march past. | | | | so life-like - they actually seem to be looking at |
| Before we went, I obtained a timetable from the | | | | you. |
| Tourist Office website, so that I could see which | | | | One of the most emotive sights we witnessed |
| Brethren were marching, where and when. This | | | | was when the brethren carrying the Tronos |
| proved very useful. | | | | would make them ‘sway’ in time with |
| We arrived in Jerez on the night of Maundy | | | | the music from the following bands. This really has |
| Thursday and were instantly thrown into an | | | | to be seen to understand, but I will try to explain: |
| electric atmosphere. We followed the sound of | | | | imagine this amazing, emotive and very loud |
| the marching drums, not really knowing what to | | | | music, the crowds in awe, shouting their |
| expect. And then there it was: the first Trono we | | | | appreciation for the passing procession, you |
| had ever seen in real life: Our Lady of the | | | | indulge yourself in the rhythm of the music and |
| Immaculate Conception. It was dark, night time, | | | | actually start to move in time with it: then you |
| and the Trono was lit with hundreds of candles. | | | | see the Trono in the distance, moving towards |
| The candles cast shadows on the face of Our | | | | you. You are totally in tune with the beat of the |
| Lady, and as she drew closer, she seemed to | | | | drum, and your eyes are fixed on the face of |
| look me straight in the eye. She was so beautiful | | | | Our Lady, Our Lord or St John the Evangelist. |
| and was dressed in a flowing, rich red and gold | | | | Then you see them start to ‘walk’ |
| velvet gown. The first of many shivers prickled | | | | towards you, one shoulder in front of the other, |
| the back of my neck. | | | | ‘swaying’ in time to the music. It is so |
| The morning of Good Friday was spent darting | | | | real, you actually forget that these are statues |
| from street to street, and running along with | | | | and the atmosphere enhances this feeling. The |
| other onlookers trying to ‘head off’ the | | | | swaying motion is met by applause and cheers |
| processions to get a full frontal view. We saw | | | | from the crowd, as it is appreciated how difficult |
| three different brotherhoods that morning, each | | | | it must be for this effect to be achieved. |
| parading their own spectacularly ornate Trono. I | | | | On Easter Sunday, we followed the entire |
| read that the brotherhoods spend months | | | | procession from start to finish. We witnessed |
| preparing for the Easter processions; practicing | | | | some amazing sights including exquisitely dressed |
| their marches and polishing those amazing floats. | | | | women wearing white Mantillas held in place by |
| You can see the evidence of this as soon as you | | | | intricate brooches, (on Friday they were wearing |
| lay eyes on them. | | | | black Mantillas) and brethren carrying heavy gilded |
| The Good Friday processions are followed by | | | | crosses. And the sight of sights: the amazing |
| ‘penitents’ who wear the renowned | | | | Trono of Christ of the Resurrection. |
| pointed headdresses and flowing gowns. Men, | | | | The procession lasted two hours and culminated |
| women and children were marching in these | | | | at the Cathedral, where the achingly heavy float |
| costumes, carrying large candles and heavy | | | | was carried, with utter eminence, up steps and |
| crosses. Some of them were barefoot. | | | | slopes, to the entrance, where in a rapture of |
| The morning processions subsided around | | | | applause, it disappeared inside. |
| lunchtime and all fell quiet in Jerez, leaving us to | | | | After some hours inside the Cathedral, every |
| visit some of the sights. | | | | Trono that had been involved in the Semana |
| For a few hours you’d never believe what | | | | Santa processions filed out around early evening, |
| you had been in the midst of that morning. Until, | | | | and we saw some of the best processions of the |
| that was, around 5pm, when that now familiar | | | | weekend. The feeling in the crowd was uplifted, |
| beating drum stimulated a distant band to strike | | | | the mood one of hope, happiness and joy, and |
| up their notorious sound. We joined the hundreds | | | | even the incense smelt different. |
| of eager onlookers lining the streets just outside | | | | This weekend was such an experience, truly |
| our hotel. Our excellent front line view gave us | | | | heart-wrenching. Put this on your Traveller’s |
| the opportunity to witness exactly what happens | | | | Wish List: Semana Santa in Spain! |